Hair Growth

Why Your Hair Won't Grow

I have countless patients, friends, and family members complaining about how their hair refuses to grow.  Then, the comparisons start.   “Why do (insert ethnic group) type of people always have such long hair?”  This is a troubling issue for many.  Fortunately, many studies have looked into this very issue and can give us insights into these quandaries.

Hair length is dictated by the rate of growth and the duration of the growing or anagen phase of the hair cycle.  Studies have shown that the rate of hair growth does not greatly vary amongst races.  The duration of hair growth before it enters the shedding or telogen phase of the hair cycle is dependent on many factors, mainly genetics.  Although, environmental and internal factors also contribute to the rate and duration of the hair cycle.  

The anagen phase of hair growth lasts for 2-6 years on average.  Clearly, if the rate of growth is constant; then an individual with a 6 year long anagen phase will have significantly longer hair than an individual with a 2 year long anagen phase.  

Rate and duration of hair growth really only dictates how long a hair can be potentially.  However, hair breakage can obviously shorten hairs and prevent them from appearing to grow longer.  This is the main dilemma for individuals who feel their hair is not growing.  Hair breakage is ultimately caused by structural weakness in the hair shaft.  There are genetic hair shaft abnormalities; however, most are acquired.

The differences in the burden of hair breakage vary amongst races.  Comparative studies amongst races on hair structure have shown that individuals of African descent acquire single-strand knots that act as points of weakness.  Single-strand knots are not typically seen in Caucasian or Asian hair.  Individuals with this problem are basically giving themselves a haircut everytime they comb their hair.  This explains why dreads or locks can go grow so long.  Unfortunately, relaxing the hair to prevent the knots does not seem to increase length, as the hair has now lost tensile strength due to the harsh chemicals in the relaxers.

Thus, if you are in overall good general health and your hair is not gaining length; lack of hair growth is not generally the issue.  The problem lies in acquired hair breakage, most commonly caused by everyday hairstyling practices.

Posted 18th March 2013 by Meena Singh
Reblogged with permission from: 
Dr. Meena Singh, MD
www.drmeenasingh.blogspot.com

Black Women Miss Out on Life

Yes I said it. Why you ask?  It all relates to hair. Women have been obsessing about their tresses and it has caused them to miss out on life. In the past I have asked people to join me in my endeavors and have heard the following excuse as to why they can’t enjoy fun stuff and life: Giiiiiirl, I can’t do _________ because it will mess up my hair. Whaaaaat??? Ummmm ok * blank stare*

First of all, it’s a weave or you are au’ naturale. Second of all, so you mean to tell me that your hair prevents you from having fun. Third, again why is this a valid excuse? LMAO

Ladies, stop allowing your hair to prevent you from living a full life. I have seen so many women miss out on fun because of their hair.  I mean really look at all the things you say you can’t do because of your tresses:

                                        1.     Swimming – I can’t get my hair wet.

    2.     Exercise – I can’t sweat out my hair.

                                              3.     Sex – Don’t mess up my hair.

   4.     Sleep – I just got my hair did.

   

                       5.     Outdoor Activities – If I am going to sweat I’m not going.

    6.     Parties/Events - My weave/hair not done.

                                              7.     Time – I have to do my hair.

LOL, reeeeally. Y’all are funny. I have heard a gamut of excuses as to why a female can’t do something and they all begin with hair. Queens let’s just let go of the excuses and jump out there and do something different. Enjoy life and all it has to offer by ridding yourselves of the deep-rooted hair obsessions. Its just hair. So what it may not be styled today. That just might be the day you meet your soul mate. Or that just might be the day that you find a new hobby. Orrrr even learn a new sex position in the bedroom, shower, or kitchen.

Quit wasting time being overly concerned with how your hair looks, it’s a given everyone will have bad hair days. Annnnnnnnd who cares? Live, Laugh, Love and enjoy many the opportunities that are being extended to you. Don’t miss out on great memories because you are afraid of what others will say or think. Tell them to kick rocks with no shoes on. Bye girl I’ve got things to do and people to meet! 

In the scheme of it, its your hair (or not) have fun and seek all new possibilities. Besides that is what the good ol’ bun and ponytail is for. Its been saving lives since that beginning of time. Throw on some makeup, pull out your big earrings, and put on your highest heels and strut hunny, because you are fierce no matter what’s going on with your tresses.  Just call and make an appointment with your stylist to S.imply K.eep Y.our H.air H.ealthy!

7 Reasons you'll get a Side Eye or Blank Stare

7 Things you don't do or say to a person with Natural Hair or Locs

1.    Don’t EVVVVVVERRRR touch their hair with out permission.

You are liable to get smacked, get a serious side eye, or bring back a nub. That will be the day you learn a lesson in ethics. So NEVER touch our hair because we don't know where your hands have been or what type of energy you possess. Next time Ask before you Reach Out and Touch someone.

2.     Don’t assume they smoke marijuana.

With the sudden increase of people wearing locs and natural hair, it seems to be the image that most people think of are Rappers, Jamaicans, Rasta’s and etc. This stereotype is just plain asinine. Heck I know waaaaay more weave queens and barber cuts that indulge in that pass time. Please don't be rude by asking if a person smokes just because of how they chose to where their hair. 

3.     Don’t ask if their hair is real.

Yeah its pretty awesome that locs are in and more and more people want to take part in the trend. BUUUUUT just because Chiquita went and got faux locs and Keisha went and bought a faux Afro doesn’t mean that everyone with locs and Afros are rocking fake hair. The tell tale sign is always in the answer of the question: “How long have you been natural or loc’d?”

4.     Don’t put your nose in their hair.

Guess what most people with natural crowns keep their hair pretty clean. So if you walk by or are standing in line behind someone with a wonderful fragrance coming from their hair PLEASE DO NOT put your nose in it to get a better whiff. This may also constitute a major blank stare and eye roll. *Excuse me my hair is clean no boogers allowed, thank youuuuuuu.*

5.     Don’t give a back handed compliment.

Ok sooooo, you like a person’s hair and you decide to give them, what you deem a compliment, but then is followed by a negative statement. Like the following: “I like your locs, but I like to change my style.”  Or “I like your hair but it’s too natural for me.” Or this one: “I like your hair, but I like working better.” Wait excuse me, whaaaaat? *Inserts side eye, blank stare and eye roll* TUH, you are killing me with this one. Soooo changing of styles is: Wavy, Tousled Curls, Straight, Feathered Bob or High bun? I’m going to wait on this one… that’s 5 different ways to style a weave. How is that versatile again? I myself have worn all of those in a month’s time not to mention the plethora of French rolls, braided updo’s and coil styles. Oh and you do realize that many locstars are in management and upper management positions? *Pulls out chair... yes please have a seat while I sip this tea*

6.     Don’t say that you are natural under your sew-in.

Girl bye, at least locstars and natural queens are confident in our beauty.  I don’t give a rat’s arse if you are natural under that raggedy sew-in. See the women I know have their edges along with thick full tresses and they don’t hide under a mask of make up and someone else’s hair. Shout to all my beautiful locstars and natural queens rocking their hair out loud!

7.     Don’t refer to their hair as weave.

Yesssss this happens.  If you like a person’s hair, then just call it hair. I have had people, usually not black; say… I like your weave. *OMG Nooooooo, I wasn’t reeeeeady* (had to gain composure) Once again you will get a super major blank stare, eye roll and head tilt on this comment. Clearly you watch too much TV. And think that all black women refer to their hair as weave. Ummmm NO. It’s our hair, grown from the scalp that has been well cared for and falls down our back. *sigh* 

My mom always taught me if you don't have anything nice to say then don't say anything at all. Just simply helping those of you non-locstars, creamy crack addicts, weave wearers and barber cut fiends to understand proper protocol when addressing someone’s hair. Just be respectful and speak to others like you want to be spoken to.  I am here to S.imply K.eep Y.our H.air H.ealthy while educating the masses.

Why is My Hair Dry?

My oh my oh my…Naturalistas tend have quite a time with moisture. The numerous people asking the same question that flood my inbox and new clients when they come in for consultation. “Why is my hair so dry?” (Now this may come off a bit harsh but I am not trying to be hurtful, just simply trying to educate you on maintaining healthy hair.) I laugh because so many do it yourselfers ask this question then try to debate a professionally licensed stylist. My thought is always well if you “know it all” then why are you asking me? Apparently what you are doing is not working because if it was you wouldn’t be asking me this question nor would you be following so many different hair care sites seeking help.  So ladies let me help you out, Please don’t take what I say to heart just take heed and understand that I am simply trying to help my beautiful queens with managing their crowns with less stress and frustration.

Keeping your hair moisturized will consist of a few things that you probably won’t see the correlation. Trust as a professional these things all hinder your moisture levels.

Cut see through hair off

1.     Trims – they are vital to keeping your hair soft, pliable, and more manageable. Split ends are the bane of existence to natural hair. They soak up moisture like a dog that’s been out on a cross county walk without water breaks. (heavy panting then lap lap lap lap lap lap lap) Please please please get trims to remove split ends that causing you so much frustration and you don’t even know it. LOL

Buildup on hair appears white/grayish when wet

2.     Product Build up – When you are using too many products all at once you will begin to pile on product in which becomes built up on the shaft of your hair. This build up will deprive your strands from receiving moisture. Think of it like petroleum on the skin or wax on a car, water beads up and is not soaked in. Build up forms a barrier preventing moisture from penetrating the shaft.

Cotton is drying to hair

3.     Cotton Pillowcases / Scarves – yes, these will drain all moisture out of the hair. Just like when you wear cotton t-shirts and you begin to sweat, that the cotton shirt soaks up sweat. Or think about if you use a cotton towel to dry off when you get out of the shower or tub. If you used silk or satin fabric it would take you much longer to dry off.  Cotton is made to pull moisture out of what ever it comes in contact with. So switch out your pillowcases and head scarves with a satin or silk one.

Bad Alcohols

4.     Alcohol – Now you should know what this does. Think about astringents that are used for cleansing the face. How it removes oils deeply imbedded in the skin. Well the same applies for products you use that contain any form of alcohol it will remove oil from your hair causing your hair to dry out. Look at the ingredients list and if alcohol is listed within the top 5-7 components that means the product has a higher percentage within its recipe. Items listed first are the bulk of what the formula consists of.

Color Samples

5.     Color – this one is pretty easy. Color strips hair of natural oils especially when going more than 2 shades lighter.  For those of you who like to bleach your hair well you are most prone to dry brittle tresses. Bleach removes the melanin that gives your crown its natural color and also provides a very subtle amount of moisture. When you remove the melanin you are removing any and all traces of natural oil to your hair, which cause hair to become extremely porous with a very weak elasticity (in other words dry and brittle, easy to break, think pine straw/hay like)

Protein Mask

6.     Protein – too much protein will also cause your lovely tresses to become weak and dry. Hair is made up of a hard protein called keratin. Usually if you press your hair a lot and your curl pattern will change a professional will recommend a protein treatment to restore curl pattern and elasticity. Some of you do it yourself ladies have used natural products such as: eggs, mayonnaise, and yogurt. Applying too many treatments of this or leaving it on too long will cause hair to harden and dry out.

Now that I have answered the age-old question about dry hair, consider yourself well informed and equipped to prevent dry tresses.  It’s best to seek a professional once in a while for recommendations of products that will work best for your hair type and preferred styling regime. If you are unsure of how to select a professional please read my other blog on “How to find a Professional Stylist”.  Remember it is easy to Simply Keep Your Hair healthy when you apply professional advice & tips to your hair care regiment. 

The 100 on Loc Myths

5 Misconceptions about Locs

1.     All Locs Stink and are Dirty

Why are people assuming that because you wear your hair loc’d that it must stink and be dirty? Hair will usually smell bad when it’s bogged down with build up; they never dry their hair or sweat lot and never cleanse it. I have come across plenty of naturally straight hair and weaves that sucker punched me in the nostrils by rudely impeding my sense of smell. Like really??? WTH? I know many locstars that cleanse their crowns waaaaay more often than those who don’t have locs. I’ve even have had clients to tell me they were told that their locs always smell nice.

2.     All Loc wearers are Pro Black (Who and what the heck is a Dread THOT

TUH!!! *Gives side eye* Sooooo just because some people wear locs does not make them conscious black people. I am seeing a trend that locs and dreads are just to immolate celebrities in the media. So unfortunately as I would like to believe that my fellow brother and sisters are wearing locs for a deeper meaning, most are doing it for style purposes. There is an influx DREAD THOTS, DREAD RATCHETS and BAD/BOSS BISHES (I despise these terms, but since they refer to themselves as this why not). What is a “DREAD THOT AND DREAD RATCHET”, you ask? – A girl who wears dreads not locs (because she lets her friend twist them with beeswax or black gel in exchange of a bag of marijuana or a 6 pack or Lime-o-ritas) she embodies all typical traits of a Thot, Ratchet or Bad/Boss Bish. She has a million booty bathroom pics, displays her best assets for all to see, has a ton of followers on social media, will be at the club every week any time of the week, always seeking a “boss”, “hustler”, “baller”, thinks that a boy or female that drives a Charger, Challenger, or Camaro is a catch, and wears two tons of make up. Let’s not forget about the boys that wear dreads (inserts reason for dread not locs from above) He wears them because Lil Wayne, 2 Chainz, Future, Young Thug and a few others have them. He seeks to be a rapper and thinks that dreads will make him famous. His idol is the dealer in the neighborhood. Also goes to club every week dripping in knock off clothing items and calls himself a boss.

(inserts my side eye here.) Yeaaaaahhhh SMH.

3.     Locs are the same as Dreads

Ummmm yeah NOPE. Originally dreads are what Rastafarians grow for religious purposes. Dreads is the word used to describe the hair as being dreadful looking.

Dreadlocks - Day 1 #SkyhhSalon

Then you have dreadlocks, which are usually done, on straight to wavy hair textures – Caucasians, Asians, and Hispanics. Dreadlocks are maintained less often as well as in a totally different way and are more time consuming to start and maintain. Techniques and products used to maintain dreadlocks differ slightly from those of locs.

Locs - Full Color #SkyhhSalon

Locs are cared for usually every 4-8 weeks depending on length and profession of wearer. Most people who wear locs prefer to use natural oils, butters or gels on their crowns. Many Locstars will keep the hair neat and tidy by enlisting the professional care of a loctician while others prefer to maintain on their own.

4.     Locs are limited in styling

LMAO, chile boooo! So when was the last time you’ve seen a weave wearer rock a French Roll and by sophisticated with it? Orrrr when have you seen pipe cleaners or pin curls on a weave and it was beautiful? (I’ll wait, for your response) Ha Haa! So the next time a chic tells me that locs are not versatile in styling options or that locs are too restrictive, I’ll just simply ask: “Straight, wavy, feathered and curly are considered versatile unrestricted styling options?” (Gives blank stare, while awaiting her response) TUH.

5.     Locs have to be cut off if you decide you don’t want them anymore

Locs being combed out

Total myth. With an extreme amount of patience, gallons of conditioner, some assistance of a loved one or friend, several combs and exorbitant amount of time, you can comb out your locs. Yes you read that correctly, I said YOU CAN COMB OUT LOCS. You DO NOT have to cut off your locs if you’ve come to the end of your journey with them.  Now during this process you will experience a ton of shedding and breakage, which is due to combing out matted hair and the hair that would have been shed if hair was not loc’d is now embedded in the core of each individual loc. Keep in mind most people shed 50 -100 strands per day, so multiply that 365 days in a year times the number of years you wore locs. (yuuuup, that’s a lot of hair) This process is not suited for everyone, that’s why you have people that just cut them off and others that will allow new growth to get to a certain length then cut so they will have hair to style after blade-to-blade treatment. 

It amuses me with some of the things people believe or think when it comes to locs. I’m sure you have heard all of this before and you may even have more to add to the list. Please be sure to comment your thoughts and experiences with myths you have heard about locs below in the comment box. As always it’s easy to S.imply K.eep Y.our H.air H.ealthy